Materi PMKR Tune Up Mesin Bensin Konvensional 🛠🛠
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Asalamualaikum, students. In
this lesson on light vehicle engine maintenance, our main topic
is tuning up a conventional gasoline engine
.
Tune up is a job to
standardize all components and
systems on a vehicle to their original state.
Either by tuning or
cleaning.
The purpose of tune-up activities includes
restoring the car's performance
to like new and preventing
various damage to the car. The
work on a conventional gasoline engine tune-up
includes checking the
cooling system, checking the engine lubricating oil
, checking the air filter,
checking the battery, checking the valves,
checking the ignition system and
adjusting the idle speed. The
tune up process begins with
tool preparation. The tools used are a
radiator tester,
compression tester,
vehicle manual, and
keys.
Timing light
tune up tester,
pull scale, spark plug wrench,
advance
filler gauge, hydrometer
and multimeter. The
next step is to install the
protector on the vehicle.
Open the hood and
then install the vehicle protection. The
purpose of installing vehicle protection is
to prevent the paint on the vehicle from being scratched
and the vehicle from getting dirty.
Hey.
The next step is to check the
cooling system.
Don't forget to use the manual.
First, check the coolant level
in the reservoir. Make sure the water level
is between the two lines.
Next, remove the radiator cap and
check the radiator water for possible
oil mixing.
Also check the pressure valve
and vacuum valve on the radiator cap.
Next check the cooling system for leaks
. Select the radiator cap adapter,
then install it properly on the
radiator.
Next, take the radiator pump tester
and attach it to the radiator cap adapter
.
Pump the radiator until the needle
points to 0.9 to 1 bar.
Wait a moment. If the needle
moves down, it means there is a
leak in the cooling system.
Once the leak is repaired, remove the
radiator tester pump by pressing the
air release button and pulling the
hose lock.
Next, check the condition of the fan belt
and the fan belt deflection.
Insert the ruler.
Pull the fan belt with a load of 10 kg and
see the shift or deflection.
Standard fan belt deflection ranges
from 7 mm to 11 mm.
Next is the lubricating oil check.
Pull out the dipstick and clean the tip
with a cotton swab.
Reinsert the dipstick and then lift
the dipstick.
Check the oil level. The oil level should
be above L and below F.
Also check the oil quality by looking at
its color. If it is pitch black,
it means the oil is bad and if it is
white, it means it is mixed with
coolant.
Also check the oil for iron filings or
dissolved grams.
Next check the air filter.
Remove the filter cover.
Then lift the filter.
If the filter is dirty, clean it by
blowing it with water from the inside. The
next step is to check
the battery.
Remove the battery for easier
inspection.
Prioritize the negative terminal when removing
the battery to prevent a
short circuit between the key and the
vehicle body.
Once the battery is removed, check the
battery body for any cracks or
deformation.
Also make sure the terminal is
in good condition.
Next, check the battery electrolyte water level
. The water should be between the
upper and lower lines. Also check the density of the
battery water.
Remove the battery ventilation cover.
Then insert the hydrometer. Press
the hydrometer to measure the density of
water.
The density of standard battery water is 1260
to 1280
kg/m³.
If it is less than the standard, it means the battery
needs to have its voltage increased. And if it
exceeds the standard, it means that the battery water needs to
be added with distilled water.
Next, measure the battery voltage
using a multimeter.
Make sure the needle points to zero.
If it is not yet zero, turn the adjusting screw
until the needle shows zero.
Turn the selector towards DC 50 volts. Then
measure the battery voltage.
Standard battery voltage is between
12.3 and 12.6 volts.
Next, check or adjust the
gap
after the battery is installed. Remove the
air filter holder.
Next, remove the cylinder head
cover bolts, engine ventilation hose, and
throttle cable lock nut.
Also remove the cylinder head cover bolt seal
.
Lift the cylinder head and put it in a
safe place.
Take a 19 key to turn the
crank pullor.
Turn the crank pulley while looking at
the rotor on the distributor.
Point the rotor at spark plug number two to
find the top of cylinder number one.
Also make sure the mark on the crank pullor
shows zero.
At the top position of cylinder 1, the valves that
can be checked or dipped are the exhaust valve of
cylinder 1, the intake valve of cylinder 1, the
intake valve of cylinder 2, and the exhaust valve of cylinder 3.
Use a filler gauge measuring 0.30 to
check the clearance of the exhaust valve and 0.20
for the intake valve.
If the gap is not according to
specifications, make adjustments.
Loosen the lock nut and turn the
adjusting bolt until you feel a touch on the
end of the rocker arm. Then tighten the
lock nut.
Check the gap again. Make sure
the filler is not movable
but is not loose.
Do the same thing on the intake valve of
cylinder 2 and the exhaust valve of cylinder 3.
Next, turn the crankshaft and
position the rotor facing opposite the
spark plug of cylinder 2. The
next step is measuring the
compression pressure. Remove all spark plugs on
each cylinder.
Prepare the compression tester.
Install the distributor cap to
prevent sparks from jumping on the
distributor.
Press the compression pressure gauge.
Ask a friend for help to mainstart the
engine.
Press the accelerator pedal fully
and start the engine for a few moments.
Read the compression measurement results.
Do this on all cylinders. Make sure
that the compression pressure is at
135 psi to 180 psi. And the difference
between cylinders is less than 15 psi.
Next is the ignition system check
.
Measure the spark plug electrode gap. Make sure
the gap is between 0.7 to 1 mm.
Also make sure the color is
brick red.
Also check the condition of the distributor cap.
Also check the resistance of the high voltage cable
.
Don't forget to calibrate the measuring instrument.
Measure all high voltage cables
and ensure the resistance is less than 25
kilos. Next check the platinum gap.
Rotate the crankshaft until the
platinum bearing is at the end of the
distributor shaft side.
Measure the platinum gap using a filler
gauge. The standard platinum gap is 0.40
mm. If necessary, make adjustments.
Loosen the platinum mounting bolts, then
adjust the gap.
Once you feel the gap is right,
tighten the platinum mounting bolts again.
Reinstall the rotor and
distributor cap.
Also install the spark plug cables according to the
ignition sequence.
Reinstall the air filter holder.
Don't forget to tighten the fastening bolts.
Reinstall the filter and
filter cover.
Next is the measurement of the duel angle
to ensure that the platinum gap adjustment
is correct. Direct the
tune up tester selector to the duel measurement position
.
Attach the negative prop to the vehicle ground
and the positive prop to the platinum bolt on the
distributor.
Start the engine and see the measurement results
on the duel tester.
For a 4 cylinder engine the duel angle should
be between 52 and 56 degrees.
Next is the ignition timing measurement
.
Attach the positive terminal to the positive
battery and the negative terminal to the negative
battery.
Attach the prop timing light to the number 1 spark plug wire.
Make sure the arrow points
towards the spark plug. Turn the octane selector to the
middle position.
Remove and close the distributor diaphragm vacuum hose
and start the engine,
point the timing light at the crankshaft
and see the number that aligns with the
mark on the crankshaft. Make sure the
ignition timing is at 3
to 7 degrees before TDC.
Ar again the air adjustment screw to the left and
look for the highest RPM.
After that, set the engine RPM to
around 700 to 800 RPM.
[Music]
After all the work is done, tidy up
and clean all the tools.
Don't forget to zero all
measuring instruments.
[Music]
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